Difference Between Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate

Retinol and retinyl palmitate are both forms of vitamin A, which is an essential nutrient for maintaining healthy skin, eyesight, and immune function. However, they differ in their chemical structures, properties, and functions, and their effectiveness and safety for skin care depend on various factors, such as concentration, formulation, pH, stability, and individual skin type and condition.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is the purest and most active form of vitamin A, also known as all-trans retinol, which is a yellow crystalline compound that is soluble in fat and alcohol but not in water. It is derived from animal sources, such as liver, eggs, and dairy products, and can also be synthesized in the body from beta-carotene, a provitamin found in vegetables and fruits.

Retinol works by binding to specific receptors on the surface of skin cells, activating cellular signaling pathways that regulate gene expression, collagen synthesis, and cell turnover. This leads to various beneficial effects on the skin, such as reducing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture and tone, and preventing acne and sun damage. Retinol can also enhance the penetration and efficacy of other skin care ingredients, such as antioxidants, peptides, and hyaluronic acid.

Structure − Retinol is a molecule that is classified as being an alcohol and it has the molecular formula of C20H30 and molecular mass of 286,45 g/mol. It is a fat-soluble vitamin which the liver does store. The molecule has double bonds and is quite easily degraded by oxidizing factors such as acidic substances and also heat. The boiling point of retinol is about 137 degrees Celsius and the melting point is about 63 degrees Celsius.

Functions − Vitamin A is an important nutrient that needs to be taken into the human body through the diet. Too little or too much vitamin A can be very harmful. Retinol is an important molecule that is converted into retinal which is a molecule that is needed and used by the photoreceptor cells of the eyes, which are responsible for vision. Too little vitamin A can cause deficiency symptoms and too much retinol can cause problems since it is stored in the liver.

What is Retinyl Palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate, on the other hand, is a derivative of retinol that is esterified with palmitic acid, a fatty acid that increases its stability and solubility in water. It is also known as vitamin A palmitate, and is commonly used in cosmetic and personal care products as a milder and less expensive alternative to retinol.

Retinyl palmitate can be obtained from animal or plant sources, and can also be synthesized in the laboratory. It works by undergoing hydrolysis in the skin to release retinol and palmitic acid, which can then activate the same cellular signaling pathways as retinol.

However, the efficacy and safety of retinyl palmitate for skin care are controversial, as some studies suggest that it may have less potent effects than retinol and may even cause skin damage in high concentrations or in combination with UV radiation. Other studies have shown that retinyl palmitate can improve skin elasticity, collagen production, and hydration, as well as protect against oxidative stress and environmental pollutants.

Structure − The molecular formula for retinyl palmitate is C36H602 and the molecular mass of the chemical is 524,86 g/mol, and the melting point is about 28.5 degrees Celsius. The ester of retinol has better stability than retinol and is why this is often the form that vitamin A occurs in when present in supplements or cosmetic products. Even though the retinyl palmitate is a different molecular form than retinol it is also taken up through the intestine in the same manner and can be stored in the liver of the body.

Functions − The retinyl palmitate is usually the form in which vitamin A supplements are made available since it is more stable than conventional retinol, which means that it is easier to use and lasts longer when made into pills or tablets that people buy to take as a supplement. It can be taken as pills or capsules or even injected into the body. It is often used as a supplement for the treatment of vitamin A deficiency in people.

Differences: Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate

In general, the choice between retinol and retinyl palmitate for skin care depends on several factors, such as the purpose, concentration, formulation, and sensitivity of the skin. Retinol is more suitable for treating specific skin concerns, such as aging, acne, and hyperpigmentation, and may require a higher concentration and a more stable and pH-neutral formulation to achieve optimal results without causing irritation or redness.

Retinyl palmitate, on the other hand, is more suitable for general skin care and maintenance, as it is less irritating and more stable than retinol, and can be used in lower concentrations or in combination with other vitamins and antioxidants. However, individuals with sensitive skin, allergies, or skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea may need to avoid both retinol and retinyl palmitate, or use them under the guidance of a dermatologist or healthcare provider.

The following table highlights the major differences between Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate −

Conclusion

In summary, retinol and retinyl palmitate are two forms of vitamin A that have different chemical structures, properties, and functions, and may have different effects and safety profiles for skin care.

While retinol is more potent and effective for treating specific skin concerns, retinyl palmitate is milder and more suitable for general skin care and maintenance. However, the choice and use of these ingredients should be based on individual skin type and condition, and should be done in moderation and with caution.

Vineet Nanda

Updated on: 07-Apr-2023

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