Pattern Layout: Meaning and Types


In order to achieve beautiful results, it’s crucial to carefully and precisely lay out your pattern on the fabric before cutting. A well-sewn garment begins at the cutting table. In order to achieve beautiful results, it’s crucial to carefully and precisely lay out your pattern on the fabric before cutting.

What is “Pattern Layout”?

The term “pattern layout” refers to the efficient, fabric-saving placement of patterns on fabrics. All of the patterns must be properly organised with the fabric’s grain in mind. For illustration, the front centre of the bodice will have a straight (lengthwise) grain

The following are the primary considerations while choosing laying patterns

  • Prior to arranging the designs, press the fabric to remove all wrinkles.

  • Lay the cloth out on a sizable or sturdy flat surface that is convenient for working.

  • Start with the larger patterns. Put similar patterns of the same length together. An illustration of how to arrange the front and back of the bodice so that their side seams are close together.

  • Fill in the spaces between the larger pattern and the smaller designs.

  • Patterns should be placed on the fold if they are to be cut out in more than one size, such as two-sleeve patterns. When the cloth has a one-way pattern or the patterns have different front and back patterns, this concept is not feasible.

  • Keep a weight, pencil, and pins on hand so you may sketch, pin, or weigh patterns to keep them in the proper position.

Principles of Pattern Layout

The following are some guidelines for laying patterns

  • Before placing the pattern on the fabric, press the cloth and the pattern pieces flat.

  • For accommodating the work, use a sizable table or any other hard, flat surface.

  • Place the fabric right side up on the table if an open arrangement is being used. Fold the fabric with the wrong sides out for all other configurations.

  • Choose the most effective technique to fold your cloth. This will depend on the fabric’s breadth, the size of your pattern pieces, the type of fabric, and the garment’s design (specifically, if the left and right sides are the same). Whether the clothing needs to be cut into several pieces or folded.

Types of Pattern Layouts

The layouts are divided into different categories based on where the patterns are placed.

  • Open layout.

  • Combination fold.

  • Lengthwise centre fold.

  • Off-centre lengthwise fold

  • Crosswise centre fold.

  • Off-centre crosswise fold.

  • Double fold.

Open Layout

The pattern components are properly positioned once the cloth is spread out over a single thickness. This layout style works well with asymmetrical dress designs. Using the ties on the right or left side, wrap the top over.

Combination Fold

Layouts of this kind incorporate both crosswise and lengthwise folds. To achieve this style of fold, the fabric is first folded lengthwise, followed by a transverse fold. Using this kind of arrangement, a saree petticoat or a four-gored skirt can be cut.

Lengthwise Fold

The lengthwise fold is among the simplest layouts to use. The cloth is folded in the same manner as when it was first purchased. To put it another way, the selvages are matched up and folded so that the fold is perpendicular to the selvedge. This design is appropriate for a child’s dress.

Off-centre Lengthwise Fold

When the pattern pieces are too wide for a lengthwise fold, this fold is helpful. Spread the fabric out to produce this fold, then refold it in the direction of the crosswise threads on a line perpendicular to the selvages. This style is very helpful for cutting thin pattern pieces on the fold. A child’s diaper can be folded longitudinally.

Crosswise Centre Fold

When folded lengthwise, materials that are too narrow to fit in the breadth can be cut out using this arrangement.

Off-center Crosswise Fold

Only a small portion of the fabric is used by folding the cloth along a weft or crosswise strand. The pattern pieces that are too wide to fold lengthwise can also be cut using this configuration. The fact that less fabric is utilised than with a crosswise centre fold is the only benefit.

Double Fold

Used for cutting multiple pattern pieces on the fold. The centre of the cloth is where the two selvages of this fold meet. Given that the fabric is wide enough to fit the pattern components, garments without front or back openings can be cut on this form of fold. For this kind of pattern, fabrics with widths of at least 50” to 60” are ideal.

Rules for Making a Trial Layout

  • Patterns must maintain straight grain lines that are parallel to the cloth selvedge. Pinning the pattern to the fabric along the grain line Arrows can help you do this by measuring and adjusting the design so that the selvedge is the same distance from both ends of the straight grain line.

  • Pattern fold lines must be maintained on folded cloth edges.

  • Allow sufficient distance between patterns so that you may cut outward notches and designate seam allowance (if the patterns do not include seam allowances). Make sure there is enough fabric left over to cut out belts, facings, and other items for which you might not have created paper designs.

  • The fabric must have the designs applied in the most practical manner.

  • After deciding where to place the pattern, firmly pin it to the fabric, making sure to pin the corners and long outside edges. The pins should be placed close to and roughly perpendicular to the cutting line. Just enough pins should be used to maintain the pattern. The edges will be distorted by too many pins. Only after all of the pattern pieces have been pinned should you begin cutting the fabric.

  • Use specific layouts for textiles with asymmetrical designs, bold patterns, striped and checkered patterns, designs that run in one direction, and fabrics with nap and pile.

Conclusion

It’s essential to carefully and exactly draw out your pattern on the fabric before cutting if you want to produce attractive results. A well-sewn garment starts at the cutting table. It’s essential to carefully and exactly draw out your pattern on the fabric before cutting if you want to produce attractive results. Layouts for patterns are created so that several parts in the same style can be created as needed. You don’t have to start over with every project.

To create a variety of clothes, a fashion designer now has to know how to set out patterns. Making pattern layouts is both fascinating and crucial because it aids in the interpretation of designs and their technical understanding. Pattern layouts can be created using a variety of techniques. Before placing pattern pieces for cutting, fabric can be folded in several ways. Making sure your clothing is cut on the grain by using the proper pattern arrangement will help. You can save fabric by carefully pinning and trimming your clothing.

Updated on: 13-Feb-2023

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