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Neckline Finished with Bias Facing
One of the simplest neckline applications is a bias-strip neck finish, often known as a bias facing. This method is ideal for edges with gentle curves. Its construction is straightforward, although some hand stitching is necessary. In this instance, a fabric strip with a bias cut for added elasticity completes the neckline edge. The strip may be readily shaped to fit over curving neck edges thanks to the bias cut.
In order to create a neat, finished outside edge, the bias strip is folded upon itself during the application process. The neckline edge is attached by sewing the two lengthwise raw edges together when the garment is folded. The body of the bias strip is then used to enclose all exposed raw edges. Due to the need for folding, the bias strip should be cut at double its width, plus two seam allowances to allow for sewing the bias edges to the neckline edge.
What is “Bias-facing”?
A narrow strip of thin cloth cut on the bias serves as a bias facing because it may be moulded to fit the curve it will finish. On sheer fabrics, bias facings are frequently used to get rid of a wide facing that might show through. Clothing for kids can also have bias facings. On bulky textiles, a bias strip of lining fabric can replace heavy, shaped facings. When finished, a bias facing should be about 12 inches wide.
The bias strip should be cut twice as broad as the desired finishing width plus two seam allowances. The length should be 2 inches longer than the edge’s seam line length. With the incorrect sides together, fold the strip in half along its length. The strip should be pressed with a steam iron to be shaped to meet the edge. Even out the raw edges. Maintaining uniform edges, baste the strip to the garment. The strip should be stretched on the outward curves and eased on the inward curves before being stitched to the garment.
How to sew a neckline with bias facing?
Method 1
Although other designs that use different bias-facing techniques might be substituted, the Eucalypt pattern and instructions use this technique. It is better for lighter-weight fabrics since it is a little less bulky than the second approach and uses a thinner bias strip that is 1′′ wide.
Turn your shirt right side out first.
At one end, push the bias strip into a 14” indent.
Right sides together, beginning with the folded end, attach the bias strip to the bodice, aligning the edge with the raw edge of the neckline. Starting at the neckline, begin to pin the bias strip, relaxing it as you go.
Continue all the way around the neck. Cut off the excess bias strip when you reach the folded edge from where you started overlaid by an inch.
Around the neckline, sew every 14′′ from the raw edge.
Reduce the seam allowance to a meagre 1/8” in width.
Press the seam allowance and bias facing up and away from the bodice.
Close to the seam, understitch on the bias facing, passing through both the bias facing and the seam allowance. This aids in keeping the bias facing rolled inside the garment.
Press the bias facing the inside-out fold. Turn your clothing inside out so that the fabric’s wrong side is facing you. With your fingertips, gently fold the bias strip’s raw edge under by ¼”. Continue around the entire neckline, pinning as you go.
Closely sew to the bias facing’s inner folded edge. As a consequence, the stitching should be placed roughly ½′′ from the edge of the neckline.
If you are making a eucalyptus or any sleeveless garment, the sleeves should be sewn using the same technique as the body.
Method 2
The Banksia, Crescent, and Darling Ranges patterns all employ this technique. It employs a broader bias strip that is applied to the neckline after being folded in half. By using this technique, you can avoid manually folding the facing’s raw edge under. It’s a little simpler to build, but it’s also a little bulkier. Once more, this can be used in place of procedure 1 in Eucalyptus or another pattern! Simply increase the width of your bias strip pattern piece to 1 12” to 2”. For example, Banksia uses a 2′′ wide bias strip, but I recommend a 1 ¼′′ wide strip for Eucalypt, which should result in a facing that is just under 12′′ wide.
Method 3
This approach is a little different. Rather than a facing, it is a binding. When binding the raw edge, rather than turning it inside out like the bias facing does, the bias strip will actually be visible from the outside of the garment. This technique is used in the River design, but it can also be used in the Crescent, Eucalyptus, and Bankisa patterns in place of a bias facing technique. In the same manner as with the other instances, we are demonstrating it here in Egypt. Make your bias strips 1 ½ inches wide for this one.
Conclusion
In conclusion, a bias neck facing can be created from the same fabric or a lighter-weight fabric by cutting it diagonally on the bias. When the garment is composed of thick, heavy material, the latter is extremely useful. In relation to fabric, not every material is appropriate for a bias-facing finish. Ironically, bias-strip necklines are either used on clothing made from thick, dense fabrics or on light, flimsy textiles. Since the underside of the facing is visible on the face of the final garment, sheers cannot be used with ordinary facings. A folded bias strip offers a neater, less noticeable option and a finished look on both the right and wrong sides of the garment.
On the other hand, a bias neck facing is effective for heavy clothing when a traditional facing would add too much bulk. In this instance, the correct neck finish is achieved by using a bias strip that is firm enough to keep the neckline edges down but thin enough to avoid adding extra bulk. When a visible topstitch on the face of the garment is not desirable or when bias binding is not an option, bias facing is a fantastic substitute.
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